Overland: Bikepacking the Ochocos and Oregon Outback
Overland: Bikepacking the Ochocos and Oregon Outback
Words: Emily Cheng
Over the summer I mapped out a link up of two bikepacking routes with three other San Francisco cyclists. We eyed the classic Oregon Outback and a loop in the Ochoco Mountains.
After much pen scribbling on a physical map, we had our line. The route starts in the town of Prineville and follows a clockwise loop, taking undulating fire roads to another small town named Mitchell. A short detour takes us to the the Painted Hills, a geologic wonder of volcanic colors. From there, we climb up into the forested Ochocos to our high point of the journey at 6,500 ft before descending to a 15-mile repeat section, which connects to the latter part of the Oregon Outback. We leave the mountains behind for fast and flat farmland terrain, finishing at the junction of the Deschutes and Colombia Rivers.
All together, the route totaled to 308 miles and 24,300 ft of total elevation gain.
I had 3 top trip goals:
- Celebrate the unknown. Most of my athletic pursuits are adventure-oriented. I love the challenge of staying calm, positive, and being resourceful, whether it be route-finding, managing difficult terrain, or dealing with inclement weather. Or, in our case, fixing bikepacking gear with gummy bears (this will be explained).
- Appreciate the local history. This would be my first time riding through Oregon backcountry where old mines and past-their-heyday pioneer towns are ubiquitous.
- Document the journey. I was the only cyclist lugging camera weight on this trip but for me, it's always worth it. Pictures tell a story that inspire us to want to “go there”. Some photos motivate people to “go there” for the Instagram shot, but when it comes to adventure photography, my hope is that my photos inspire others to embark on their own journey with photos and experiences totally different from mine. That’s the beauty of cycling; the same road is never experienced the same way twice.
DAY 1:
Day one was a HOT sufferfest. A heat wave sent temperatures into the triple digits and we had over 6k ft of climbing on fully loaded bikes. I was grateful for every water crossing we got to splash through. Eventually I didn't even bother to take off my shoes for the crossings that were unrideable; my socks dried off in a matter of minutes.
Between Prineville and Mitchell we encountered a herd of cows led by a massive muscled bull relentlessly grunting. Other cows responded with calls and the baby calves scampered. We slow rolled behind the moo parade, unsure if getting too close would agitate the bull. We waited at least half an hour before holding our breaths and passing.
There wasn't much tree cover so we packed like sardines under any tiny bit of shade we found.
Meg pioneered the “Ochoco Power Nap” - Step 1: seek out shade (the hardest step). Step 2: let your body go limp over your bike.
There is a fabled "refrigerator full of ice cream and soda" with an honor system payment in the town of Ashwood, population 85. A local named Frankie keeps it stocked up for cyclists. All together the four of us crushed 10 ice creams.
When our group reached the town of Mitchell, formerly a pioneering town, everyone else was ready to unwind. I unloaded my bikepacking bags and made a solo 12 mile detour to pay a visit to the famed Painted Hills to catch the colors at sunset.
DAY 2:
We stayed at cyclist-friendly Spoke’n Hostel in Mitchell. They create name signs for every guest that passes through. The stacks of paper made the impact of the COVID pandemic tangible: 1253 guests in 2021 versus 150 in 2020.
DAY 3:
On the third day we climbed into the cool forests of the Ochocos and even saw leaping elk. At 6.5k feet, the temperature difference was remarkable. All my bottles were emptied on day 1, but today I somehow only drank a total of 3 sips of water in spite of all the climbing. There was one heinous unshaded steep road climb where the sun reminded us not to get too complacent.
Katrin found a slow leak at the base of her valve stem and miraculously fixed it with a Haribo sour gummy bear. Later Meg lost her camelback mouthpiece and we tried the good ol' gummy bear trick again, but it didn't work this time. At camp, I whittled a cap out of a twig and tape for her and it worked like a charm.
DAY 4:
The next day was another whirlwind of elements. The angry weather gods bestowed us 35mph wind gusts in the afternoon as we pacelined towards the ghost town of Shaniko, a major stop along the Oregon Outback. As settlers arrived during the gold rush in the mid-1800s, Shaniko was established as a wool processing hub. The town dwindled soon after when it got snubbed by a major railway line.
DAY 5:
The finale was a stunning series of rollers through plain and farmland. Despite dropping elevation overall, the crosswinds kept our heart rates high. We caught glimpses of Mt Hood where I had taken two friends up to the summit just a few days before this trip.
It’s crazy to think the first day of the trip reached a blazing hot 105F, and then as if someone flipped a switch, the final two days were so cold our puffy jackets stayed on during the ride. Who would've thought Oregon would be a place of extremes!
Words: Emily Cheng
Over the summer I mapped out a link up of two bikepacking routes with three other San Francisco cyclists. We eyed the classic Oregon Outback and a loop in the Ochoco Mountains.
After much pen scribbling on a physical map, we had our line. The route starts in the town of Prineville and follows a clockwise loop, taking undulating fire roads to another small town named Mitchell. A short detour takes us to the the Painted Hills, a geologic wonder of volcanic colors. From there, we climb up into the forested Ochocos to our high point of the journey at 6,500 ft before descending to a 15-mile repeat section, which connects to the latter part of the Oregon Outback. We leave the mountains behind for fast and flat farmland terrain, finishing at the junction of the Deschutes and Colombia Rivers.
All together, the route totaled to 308 miles and 24,300 ft of total elevation gain.
I had 3 top trip goals:
- Celebrate the unknown. Most of my athletic pursuits are adventure-oriented. I love the challenge of staying calm, positive, and being resourceful, whether it be route-finding, managing difficult terrain, or dealing with inclement weather. Or, in our case, fixing bikepacking gear with gummy bears (this will be explained).
- Appreciate the local history. This would be my first time riding through Oregon backcountry where old mines and past-their-heyday pioneer towns are ubiquitous.
- Document the journey. I was the only cyclist lugging camera weight on this trip but for me, it's always worth it. Pictures tell a story that inspire us to want to “go there”. Some photos motivate people to “go there” for the Instagram shot, but when it comes to adventure photography, my hope is that my photos inspire others to embark on their own journey with photos and experiences totally different from mine. That’s the beauty of cycling; the same road is never experienced the same way twice.
DAY 1:
Day one was a HOT sufferfest. A heat wave sent temperatures into the triple digits and we had over 6k ft of climbing on fully loaded bikes. I was grateful for every water crossing we got to splash through. Eventually I didn't even bother to take off my shoes for the crossings that were unrideable; my socks dried off in a matter of minutes.
Between Prineville and Mitchell we encountered a herd of cows led by a massive muscled bull relentlessly grunting. Other cows responded with calls and the baby calves scampered. We slow rolled behind the moo parade, unsure if getting too close would agitate the bull. We waited at least half an hour before holding our breaths and passing.
There wasn't much tree cover so we packed like sardines under any tiny bit of shade we found.
Meg pioneered the “Ochoco Power Nap” - Step 1: seek out shade (the hardest step). Step 2: let your body go limp over your bike.
There is a fabled "refrigerator full of ice cream and soda" with an honor system payment in the town of Ashwood, population 85. A local named Frankie keeps it stocked up for cyclists. All together the four of us crushed 10 ice creams.
When our group reached the town of Mitchell, formerly a pioneering town, everyone else was ready to unwind. I unloaded my bikepacking bags and made a solo 12 mile detour to pay a visit to the famed Painted Hills to catch the colors at sunset.
DAY 2:
We stayed at cyclist-friendly Spoke’n Hostel in Mitchell. They create name signs for every guest that passes through. The stacks of paper made the impact of the COVID pandemic tangible: 1253 guests in 2021 versus 150 in 2020.
DAY 3:
On the third day we climbed into the cool forests of the Ochocos and even saw leaping elk. At 6.5k feet, the temperature difference was remarkable. All my bottles were emptied on day 1, but today I somehow only drank a total of 3 sips of water in spite of all the climbing. There was one heinous unshaded steep road climb where the sun reminded us not to get too complacent.
Katrin found a slow leak at the base of her valve stem and miraculously fixed it with a Haribo sour gummy bear. Later Meg lost her camelback mouthpiece and we tried the good ol' gummy bear trick again, but it didn't work this time. At camp, I whittled a cap out of a twig and tape for her and it worked like a charm.
DAY 4:
The next day was another whirlwind of elements. The angry weather gods bestowed us 35mph wind gusts in the afternoon as we pacelined towards the ghost town of Shaniko, a major stop along the Oregon Outback. As settlers arrived during the gold rush in the mid-1800s, Shaniko was established as a wool processing hub. The town dwindled soon after when it got snubbed by a major railway line.
DAY 5:
The finale was a stunning series of rollers through plain and farmland. Despite dropping elevation overall, the crosswinds kept our heart rates high. We caught glimpses of Mt Hood where I had taken two friends up to the summit just a few days before this trip.
It’s crazy to think the first day of the trip reached a blazing hot 105F, and then as if someone flipped a switch, the final two days were so cold our puffy jackets stayed on during the ride. Who would've thought Oregon would be a place of extremes!